THE TENTERS AND THE BLACKPITTS AREAS OF DUBLIN
THE TENTERS OR THE BLACKPITTS AREAS OF DUBLIN [I FIND IT DIFFICULT TO DECIDE]
My GPS failed and as a result I had some problems deciding what areas individual streets and buildings are located within so describing all images in this collection as being in the Tenters or Blackpitts areas may not be fully accurate so you are invited to correct me.
Blackpitts and The Tenters: Industry, Community, and Heritage in Dublin 8
I. Introduction: Blackpitts and The Tenters - Heritage Hubs of Dublin 8
A. Overview
Nestled within the historic Liberties area of Dublin 8 lie the distinct yet deeply interconnected neighbourhoods of Blackpitts and The Tenters. These areas form a rich tapestry woven from the threads of centuries of industry, significant social change, and enduring cultural commemoration. Once peripheral lands beyond Dublin's medieval walls, they evolved through phases of monastic influence, intensive craft production, and ultimately, pioneering urban residential development.
Blackpitts, with its evocative name linked to medieval trades, and The Tenters, recalling the sights and sounds of textile finishing, stand today as vital parts of Dublin's urban narrative, reflecting both the hardships and the resilience that have shaped the city. Their stories encompass the rise and fall of industries, the impact of religious and migrant communities, the response to profound housing crises, and the conscious effort to embed cultural identity into the very fabric of the streets.
B. Purpose & Scope
This blog post aims to provide an expanded and fact-checked historical account of the Blackpitts and Tenters areas, drawing upon available evidence to elaborate on their geography, industrial past, significant housing developments, and cultural landscape. It seeks to move beyond a superficial overview, correcting potential inaccuracies in preliminary descriptions and delving deeper into the specific histories of these neighbourhoods.
The focus remains tightly on Blackpitts and The Tenters, exploring their individual characteristics while acknowledging their connections to the broader Liberties context and addressing specific historical points such as the origins of place names, the timeline and funding of the Fairbrother's Fields housing scheme, the sequence of early 20th-century Corporation housing projects, and the significance of local landmarks.
C. Initial Text Review Summary
Initial descriptions often capture key elements, such as the general location of The Tenters bordering Blackpitts and Newmarket Square, its proximity to city landmarks, the existence of a commemorative stone on Clarence Mangan Road, and the basic narrative of the Fairbrother's Fields housing scheme replacing former industrial or agricultural land. However, these initial accounts require verification and significant expansion regarding precise boundaries, the confirmation of walking distances, the full context of the stone inscription, the accurate timeline, funding details, and sequential development of early Dublin Corporation housing schemes, and the specific origins of numerous evocative street names. This report will address these points, grounding the narrative in documented historical and archaeological evidence.
II. Defining the Areas: Geography, Boundaries, and City Connections
A. Mapping The Tenters
The Tenters is formally defined as an area within Dublin 8 bordering the Liberties neighbourhood proper, Blackpitts, Donore Avenue, and Newmarket Square. However, common local understanding often extends the name "The Tenters" to encompass a wider residential zone that includes the original Fairbrother's Fields housing scheme (built 1922-1924) and adjacent streets stretching towards the South Circular Road, Donore Avenue, Cork Street, and Blackpitts. This area developed on lands historically known as the tenterfields, used for drying textiles.
Today, The Tenters is recognised as a mature, popular, and long-established residential neighbourhood. It possesses a distinct character marked by its quaint streets, a legacy of the planned layout from the 1920s scheme. Visitors are encouraged to observe the diverse architectural styles and intricate ironwork details that adorn many of the houses, reflecting the period's design sensibilities. Central to the area's identity is Oscar Square park, originally designated simply as a "Playground" in the housing plans, which now serves as a beloved focal point for the community, particularly popular with dog enthusiasts. The area retains a strong, tangible sense of community, making it a highly desirable place to live.
B. Situating Blackpitts
Located immediately adjacent to The Tenters, Blackpitts occupies a historically significant position connecting towards New Street and Fumbally Lane, in close proximity to the landmark St Patrick's Cathedral. Historically, Blackpitts was noted as an area inhabited by self-employed artisans and craftspeople, suggesting a degree of prosperity in earlier periods.
Its identity became strongly associated with industry, particularly the tanning of leather, but also weaving and milling, activities facilitated by the nearby River Poddle. In the early 1800s, part of the area was even known as the Cottonfields due to experimental cotton growing aimed at supporting the local weaving industry. In recent times, Blackpitts has gained recognition as a "cool" and "hip" neighbourhood, undergoing significant regeneration while still retaining elements of its historic character, such as artisan terraces and cottages.
C. Proximity and Connectivity
The location of The Tenters offers excellent connectivity to Dublin's city centre and key landmarks. Claims that the area is within a short walk of Grafton Street, St Stephen’s Green, and Christ Church Cathedral are substantiated by multiple sources. This proximity is frequently highlighted as a major factor in the area's enduring appeal as a residential location. Christ Church Cathedral, the elder of Dublin's two medieval cathedrals, is nearby , as is St Patrick's Cathedral, Ireland's largest church, founded in 1191.
Other significant nearby attractions and institutions include the Guinness Storehouse at St James's Gate , the Teeling Whiskey Distillery in Newmarket , the historic Marsh's Library , and the major medical facility, St James's Hospital, itself built on the site of the former South Dublin Union workhouse.
D. Interconnected Histories and Urban Change
The close geographical positioning and shared boundaries of Blackpitts and The Tenters point towards a historically interconnected relationship. Their development trajectories were not entirely separate; rather, they appear to have influenced one another. Blackpitts' focus on industry, particularly tanning which relied heavily on water from the River Poddle , existed alongside The Tenters, initially open fields crucial for the final stages of textile production – bleaching and drying – which also utilized local water resources. Fumbally Lane serves as a physical link, connecting Blackpitts to New Street near The Tenters boundary.
The eventual decline of the weaving industry, which rendered the tenterfields obsolete for their original purpose, directly paved the way for their transformation into market gardens and subsequently the large-scale Fairbrother's Fields housing scheme. This major shift in land use in The Tenters undoubtedly had implications for the adjacent industrial and residential landscape of Blackpitts.
Furthermore, the evolution of these areas illustrates broader patterns of urban change in inner-city Dublin. Blackpitts' journey from a relatively prosperous artisan quarter through intense industrial use, subsequent decline, and its current phase of regeneration and recognition as a desirable, "hip" location exemplifies cycles of economic fortune and gentrification.
This contrasts subtly with The Tenters, whose identity is strongly rooted in the 1920s housing scheme, fostering a sense of enduring community and heritage, marked by events like the Tenters100 Centenary commemorations. The continued high demand for housing in The Tenters, noted as echoing the desires of families nearly a century ago , highlights its sustained appeal. Yet, this contemporary popularity in both areas exists alongside the ongoing challenge of balancing modern urban pressures with the preservation of unique historical character, architectural integrity, and the continuity of established communities.
III. Echoes of Industry: The Making of Blackpitts and The Tenters
A. The Story in the Names
The very names "The Tenters" and "Blackpitts" serve as powerful linguistic markers, encoding centuries of industrial activity and landscape transformation.
"The Tenters": This name originates directly from the "tenterfields" that once occupied the area. From the 17th to the 19th centuries, these fields were essential to the Liberties' thriving textile industry. Locally woven cloth, primarily wool and linen, was brought here to be stretched taut on large wooden frames known as "tenters".
The cloth was secured by numerous "tenterhooks," a term that survives in the English idiom "to be on tenterhooks," meaning to be in a state of suspense or anxiety. This process allowed the fabric to dry evenly and bleach in the open air. The Huguenots, Protestant refugees who arrived from France in the late 17th century, brought valuable weaving skills and significantly contributed to this industry.
The memory of this practice is explicitly preserved by a stone inscription located on Clarence Mangan Road, which reads: “This area is known as the Tenters — because linen cloth was stretched out to bleach in the sun. When the linen trade failed, the fields were used for market gardens, until this housing scheme was built.”. Recognizing the challenges posed by the Irish weather, philanthropist Thomas Pleasants constructed a stone Tenter House in 1814, located between Cork Street, Brickfield Lane, Brown Street, and Ormond Street, to allow cloth drying indoors, protected from the elements.
"Blackpitts": The origin of the name Blackpitts has been subject to some debate. One theory proposed that it derived from mass burial pits used during the devastating Black Death (Bubonic Plague) epidemic that struck Dublin in 1348. However, extensive archaeological excavations conducted in the area, particularly at New Street South in 2004, have provided compelling evidence for an alternative, industry-related origin.
These excavations unearthed over one hundred tanning pits dating from the late thirteenth to the seventeenth century, revealing one of the largest and most long-lived medieval leatherworking sites discovered in Ireland or Britain. The tanning process involved soaking hides in pits filled with solutions often containing oak bark and other agents, which would have created dark, odorous liquids. It is now strongly suggested that the name "Blackpitts" refers directly to these numerous pits of black tanning solution that characterized the area for centuries, potentially dating back to late-medieval times.
B. Industrial Landscape
Blackpitts and the surrounding Liberties area, including the lands later known as The Tenters, formed a significant industrial zone for centuries, heavily reliant on local resources, particularly water from the River Poddle.
Textiles and Weaving: The Liberties was historically Dublin's primary textile district. Industries produced wool, linen, silk, cotton, and the famous Irish poplin (a silk and wool blend). Huguenot immigrants played a key role from the late 17th century, establishing weaving as a major activity. The Quaker community, including families like the Fairbrothers, were also heavily involved in weaving and cloth-making from the 17th century onwards. Notable figures like Richard Atkinson, a Master Weaver and twice Lord Mayor, pioneered the factory-based production of poplin.
Evidence of this trade includes the former Silk Weavers Union Hall (built 1904) on Donore Avenue, later used by rebels linked to Michael Mallin during the 1916 Easter Rising. Fumbally Lane housed businesses like Blair Fancy Linens, specializing in linen drapery in the late 20th century. The gradual decline of the weaving industry during the 19th century was a major economic shift for the area.
Tanning: As confirmed by archaeological work, tanning was a dominant industry in Blackpitts from at least the late 13th century through to the 17th century, and likely continued thereafter. The scale was significant, suggesting not just one large tannery but potentially a quarter with numerous smaller operations. This trade, transforming animal hides into leather, was vital for producing goods like shoes, harnesses, and containers. The industry relied heavily on the River Poddle, with evidence of ditches being dug off the watercourse to supply tanneries with water and provide drainage. Tanneries existed alongside other small industries, contributing to the area's mixed industrial character. Fumbally Lane, connecting Blackpitts to New Street, reflects this historical mix of tanning, brewing, and residential use.
Brewing and Distilling: The area around Blackpitts and Fumbally Lane also had a strong tradition of brewing and distilling, dating back to at least the mid-17th century and influenced by both Quaker and Huguenot entrepreneurs. Quaker families like Poole (who laid out Fumbally Lane in 1721) and Taylor had significant brewing interests here. It's suggested that Dublin's first porter may have been brewed in this vicinity. Notable operations included Samuel Madder's Blackpitts Porter Company (from 1779) and John Busby's Distillery, established in the 1830s on Fumbally Lane – a stone building featuring his initials 'JB' and the date '1836' on a water tank still exists today, incorporated into the Fumbally Studio development. The City of Dublin Brewery later occupied the Busby buildings in the late 19th century before the complex shifted to other industrial uses like textile manufacturing.
The River Poddle's Role: The River Poddle was the lifeblood of this industrial landscape. This fast-flowing river, originating in the Dublin Mountains and flowing towards the Liffey, was instrumental in shaping the area's development. It served multiple crucial functions: determining estate and parish boundaries; providing an early source of drinking water for the city; powering mills, initially for grain and later for larger industries; and supplying the vast amounts of water needed for tanning, brewing, distilling, and textile finishing processes like bleaching, dyeing, and washing.
Purpose-built ponds and cisterns associated with these trades appear on old maps, particularly in The Tenters area. Archaeological evidence shows ditches connected to the Poddle serving the tanneries. However, the river was also prone to flooding, and concerns about contamination from industrial effluent led to legislation from the 15th century onwards attempting to regulate its use and associated ditches. Despite now flowing largely underground through the area, the Poddle's legacy persists, occasionally causing flooding issues in modern times. The river's critical role highlights how natural resources fundamentally drove the area's economic specialization and shaped its physical and environmental history, with its eventual culverting marking a significant transformation in the urban relationship with water.
C. Land Use Evolution
The landscape of The Tenters underwent significant transformation over time, driven by economic shifts.
From Fields to Gardens: The primary identity of the "Tenters" fields was tied to their function in the textile industry – the open-air drying and bleaching of cloth stretched on tenter frames. As the traditional weaving and linen trades experienced a decline in the 19th century, this specific industrial use became obsolete. The open fields were then repurposed for market gardening, supplying produce to the growing city. This agricultural phase represents an intermediary stage before the land was ultimately earmarked for residential development.
The Fairbrother Connection: The name "Fairbrother's Fields" became associated with this land, linking it to the Fairbrother family. This family belonged to the Quaker community that settled in the Liberties in the 17th century and were actively involved in the area's weaving trade. Their ownership or association with these particular fields led to the name that persisted even after the land use changed. It was this site, known as Fairbrother's Fields, that Dublin Corporation selected in 1912 for what would become a major housing scheme. This sequence—from industrial use (tenterfields) to agriculture (market gardens) to residential development (Fairbrother's Fields housing scheme)—clearly illustrates a common pattern of urban transformation where declining industries free up land for new urban functions, driven by changing economic realities and growing population needs.
The layered identities encapsulated in the names "Tenters" and "Blackpitts" reflect this complex history. "The Tenters" speaks directly to the textile finishing process, while "Blackpitts" evokes the tanning industry (and perhaps older folk memories of plague burials). Together with the association of specific communities like Huguenots and Quakers with particular trades and locations (e.g., Fumbally Lane, Fairbrother's Fields), these names underscore a strong local identity deeply rooted in centuries of industrial activity, economic adaptation, and community presence.
IV. Building Communities: Dublin's Early 20th Century Housing Revolution
A. The Context: Addressing the Dublin Housing Crisis
The early decades of the 20th century found Dublin grappling with a housing crisis of appalling proportions. The city's tenements were widely regarded as the worst slums in Europe, characterised by overcrowding, dilapidation, and lack of basic sanitation. The catastrophic collapse of tenements on Church Street in 1913, which killed seven people, brought the dire situation into sharp public focus and acted as a catalyst for action.
Surveys revealed the shocking extent of the problem; a 1918 report indicated that nearly a third of Dublin's population (around 87,000 people) lived in slums, with over 20,000 families crammed into single-room dwellings. These conditions fostered the spread of diseases like tuberculosis and typhoid and were seen by some contemporary observers as contributing factors to social unrest, even potentially influencing the events of the 1916 Easter Rising. The tenement system itself had deep roots, evolving from the subdivision of former single-family Georgian houses into multi-occupancy dwellings without adequate adaptation.
In response, efforts to provide better housing gained momentum. The Dublin Corporation Housing Committee, under the long-term chairmanship of the dedicated Alderman Tom Kelly, was established to expedite the provision of new, well-planned housing for the city's working poor. Influences included emerging town planning ideas, the British Garden City and Garden Suburb movements, and the existing models of philanthropic housing associations like the Dublin Artisans’ Dwellings Company (DADC).
B. Pioneering Corporation Schemes (Sequence & Details)
Against a backdrop of global war and national revolution, Dublin Corporation embarked on a series of ambitious housing projects. The sequence of these initial schemes is important: Spitalfields was the first to see tenders accepted in 1918, work commenced on St James's Walk concurrently, followed by the planning and eventual construction of Ceannt Fort (McCaffrey's Estate) from 1919, and culminating in the largest scheme, Fairbrother's Fields, built between 1922 and 1924.
1. Spitalfields (Opened 1918):
Located in the heart of the Liberties, between Francis Street and Meath Street, this site required the clearance of existing slum properties. Identified early by Alderman Kelly, funding challenges were overcome when the prospect of an "American Loan" prompted the British Treasury to provide assistance. The project faced some public opposition regarding the ownership of the properties slated for demolition, some of which were reportedly owned by Corporation councillors.
The tender for the initial 75 houses was accepted in April 1918, with J. and M. Clarke as contractors. Despite wartime shortages, the houses were completed later that year. Rents were subsidised, representing a significant annual cost to the Corporation.
Architecturally, the scheme drew heavily on the style of the DADC and incorporated picturesque Garden Suburb elements like varied rooflines, brick and pebbledash finishes, and polychromatic brick details, though built at a relatively high density. A small shared public square was provided instead of individual gardens, a point of critique by figures like Sir John Griffith. While intended for former tenement dwellers, issues like overcrowding in the small, often one-roomed, dwellings persisted, almost replicating tenement conditions in some cases.
2. St James's Walk / Colbert's Fort (Completed 1921):
Construction began on this scheme while Spitalfields was still underway. Sited on elevated ground along the Grand Canal Main Line near the Guinness Brewery and Grand Canal headquarters, it was considered well-located for employment.
The Corporation already owned the land. Building contracts were awarded (possibly post-1916 to Alexander Hull) but completion, initially planned for nine months, was significantly delayed by factors including proposed road widening, shortages of materials and labour exacerbated by the war, and strikes by craftsmen. The completed housing was finally handed over to the Corporation in March 1921.
The naming of the scheme strongly reflected the heightened political atmosphere following the 1916 Rising. Dublin Corporation named the terraces in honour of executed leaders and participants: Colbert’s Fort (after Con Colbert), Clarke’s Terrace (after Tom Clarke), Mallin Avenue (after Michael Mallin), and McCarthy Terrace.
The scheme provided homes for 66 families arranged in four terraces. Learning from the Spitalfields experience, some houses facing the canal were provided with small front gardens, and a shared kitchen garden was allocated for the estate.
3. Ceannt Fort / McCaffrey Estate (Construction started 1919):
Located at Mount Brown, on the grounds of the former McCaffrey Estate adjacent to the South Dublin Union workhouse (now St James's Hospital). An initial 1914 proposal by City Architect C.J. McCarthy for 240 houses was criticised for its monotonous layout by figures like P.C. Cowan of the Local Government Board (LGB) and housing activist E.A. Aston.
Consequently, architect Thomas Joseph (TJ) Byrne, known for his progressive views on social housing standards, was commissioned. His radically different, lower-density design, incorporating features like a parlour, indoor toilet and bathroom, and large gardens for each house, was approved in February 1915. However, the necessary loan from the LGB (the British administrative body overseeing local authorities) was refused due to wartime financial restrictions.
Dublin Corporation reapplied successfully for the loan in 1917 (requesting an increase due to rising costs), and Byrne submitted revised plans. The tender was awarded to Louis Monks in January 1918, and construction commenced in 1919. Progress was slow, hampered by industrial action, funding difficulties, and the ongoing War of Independence; by August 1919, only 80 of 202 houses were complete despite high demand.
The estate was renamed Ceannt Fort in honour of Commandant Éamonn Ceannt, executed after the 1916 Rising, with individual roads named after other volunteers killed nearby in the South Dublin Union engagement.
Despite the difficulties, the finished scheme was lauded as "a wonderfully intimate series of housing clusters, gardens and playgrounds" and is still regarded as one of the finest examples of early 20th-century urban housing design in Ireland.
C. Focus: The Fairbrother's Fields Scheme (The Tenters) (1922-1924)
Genesis and Delays (1912-1922): The journey to build the Fairbrother's Fields housing scheme was long and arduous. Dublin Corporation selected the 22-acre site, named after the Quaker Fairbrother family associated with the land, as early as 1912. Initial plans were drawn up, but the project became entangled in a decade of profound national and international turmoil. The outbreak of the First World War, the 1916 Easter Rising, the subsequent War of Independence, and the Irish Civil War all contributed to significant delays and disruptions, preventing construction from commencing until 1922.
Funding Narratives: Funding this ambitious project spanned the transition from British rule to the establishment of the Irish Free State.
Regarding a claim that the British Government promised £4 million for Dublin housing schemes, which was then diverted to rebuild the city centre after the 1916 Rising, the available sources do not directly corroborate this specific figure being allocated to Fairbrother's Fields and subsequently redirected in this manner. However, it is documented that the British government did increase housing funds for Ireland expediently in the aftermath of the Rising, and Dublin Corporation utilised these funds, often adopting Garden Suburb design principles then favoured in Britain.
Crucially, the construction of Fairbrother's Fields (1922-1924) coincided with the birth of the new Irish state. The scheme holds the distinction of being the first Tenant Purchase housing project undertaken by the Irish Free State, specifically aimed at housing Dublin's working class. Its funding was significantly supported by the Provisional Government's landmark 'Million Pound Grant' scheme, championed by W.T. Cosgrave in January 1922.
This national initiative provided grants to urban local authorities covering two-thirds of construction costs, with the remaining third to be financed through local rates and short-term loans. Fairbrother's Fields was one of the major developments realised under this scheme. Dáil Éireann debates from the period reference the scheme's costs in comparison to other projects like Marino , while Seanad Éireann records also mention the grant and loan arrangements.
Realisation (1922-1924): Fairbrother's Fields became the final and largest of this initial wave of four Corporation housing estates, ultimately providing over 430 houses. To achieve this scale and expedite construction in the challenging post-conflict environment, the Corporation employed several different building contractors, resulting in a degree of variation in housing styles across the estate.
A key design feature, reflecting the evolving standards influenced by the Garden City movement, was the provision of both front and back gardens for all houses. The layout also prudently reserved space for future community amenities, including a school, a public park (Oscar Square), and a new Roman Catholic Church. In an effort to support local industry and employment, bricks from the nearby Dolphin’s Barn Brick Company were used in the construction of a large portion of the houses (357 units in 1922). The houses themselves were typically constructed using mass concrete, a common method for Corporation housing of this era.
Oscar Square: This central green space was an integral part of the original plan, referred to by the architects simply as the "Playground". It quickly became, and remains, a much-loved community asset. A fascinating hidden layer to its history is that its current raised elevation is a result of an underground air raid shelter constructed beneath it during the Second World War (known in Ireland as 'The Emergency').
Legacy and Centenary: The Fairbrother's Fields scheme, now encompassed within the broader Tenters area, marked its centenary in 2022, celebrating 100 years since construction began. The houses and the neighbourhood remain highly sought-after today, testament to the quality of the original planning and the enduring strength of the community that developed there.
The development of these four housing schemes—Spitalfields, St James's Walk/Colbert's Fort, Ceannt Fort, and Fairbrother's Fields—reveals much about the period. The progression demonstrates a clear evolution in design philosophy within just a few years. Spitalfields, the earliest, reflected older, higher-density models with limited private amenity space. In contrast, Ceannt Fort, under T.J. Byrne's influence, pioneered lower densities, private gardens, and significantly improved internal layouts with parlours and bathrooms, setting new standards. Fairbrother's Fields adopted the principle of private gardens for all dwellings. This rapid improvement in standards reflects the growing influence of Garden City ideals and a rising aspiration for better living conditions for the working classes.
Furthermore, the naming strategies employed across the schemes serve as a barometer of the shifting political climate. While Spitalfields retained older street names, the schemes built during and immediately after the revolutionary period (St James's Walk/Colbert's Fort and Ceannt Fort) were explicitly named to commemorate leaders and participants of the 1916 Rising.
Fairbrother's Fields, however, as the first major scheme undertaken by the new Free State, adopted a different commemorative approach, focusing on figures associated with Ireland's cultural and intellectual heritage, particularly the Celtic Revival. This deliberate choice demonstrates how social housing projects became platforms for expressing and embedding evolving concepts of national identity – initially focused on revolutionary sacrifice, later broadening to encompass cultural achievement – within the urban landscape of the nascent state.
Finally, the persistent delays encountered across nearly all these projects underscore the immense practical challenges of implementing ambitious social policy during a period marked by war, revolution, civil conflict, economic instability, material shortages, and labour disputes. The eventual completion of these schemes, despite such formidable obstacles, stands as a remarkable achievement of the Dublin Corporation Housing Committee and the various state bodies involved.
V. Reading the Streets: Landmarks, Names, and Cultural Memory
A. Decoding Street Names
The naming of the streets within the Fairbrother's Fields housing scheme was a deliberate act of cultural inscription. Alderman Thomas Kelly, the influential chairman of the Housing Committee, proposed naming the roads after prominent figures associated with Irish arts, literature, history, and scholarship, particularly those connected with the Celtic Revival movement of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. This suggestion was approved by Dublin Corporation. Intriguingly, several of the individuals honoured also shared a common history of employment with the Ordnance Survey Ireland (OSI), the national mapping agency whose work was foundational to the study of Irish topography, archaeology, and place names. This adds another layer of meaning, connecting the new neighbourhood to the scholarly project of defining and understanding the Irish nation.
The following list summarises the confirmed or highly probable origins of key street names within The Tenters area, clarifying connections and correcting potential assumptions:
St Thomas's Road: St Thomas the Martyr/Abbey. Linked to the 12th C Abbey of St Thomas & Liberty of Thomas Court & Donore.
Oscar Square: Oscar, son of Oisín - Figure from Fenian Cycle of Irish Mythology (reflecting Celtic Revival interest).
Clarence Mangan Road: James Clarence Mangan (1803-1849) 19th C Poet, known for dark, powerful verse; key figure in pre-Revival literature.
O'Carolan Road: Turlough O'Carolan (1670-1738) - Renowned blind travelling harper & composer, considered a national composer.
O'Curry Road/Avenue: Eugene O'Curry (1794-1862) 19th C Scholar & Antiquary, researched/translated Irish history manuscripts.
O'Donovan Road: John O'Donovan (1806-1861) - 19th C Scholar, worked on Ordnance Survey, translated Annals of Four Masters.
Geoffrey Keating Road: Geoffrey Keating (c.1569-c.1644) 17th C Priest, Poet & Historian (author of Foras Feasa ar Éirinn).
Petrie Road: George Petrie (1790-1866) 19th C Painter, Musician, Antiquary, Archaeologist, RIA President.
Gilbert Road: Sir John Gilbert (1829-1898) 19th C Historian & Archivist of Dublin, edited key city records.
Dufferin Avenue: Baroness Dufferin (1807-1867) Poet (Likely Helen Blackwood, Lady Dufferin, known for "The Irish Emigrant").
This deliberate naming strategy represents a conscious act of placemaking. By inscribing the names of figures central to Irish cultural and intellectual history onto the streets of this new working-class neighbourhood, the authorities of the nascent Irish Free State aimed to foster a sense of national heritage and pride, embedding cultural memory into the residents' daily lives. The specific inclusion of four prominent figures associated with the Ordnance Survey further links the area to the foundational work of mapping and documenting the Irish landscape and its past.
B. Key Sites and Features
Beyond the street names, several physical features contribute to the character and historical understanding of Blackpitts and The Tenters:
Clarence Mangan Road Stone: As previously mentioned, this simple stone marker provides a direct, tangible link to the area's industrial past, explicitly commemorating the transition from tenter fields to market gardens to housing.
Oscar Square Park: This central green space remains a vital community hub. Its history as the site of a Second World War air raid shelter adds a layer of hidden history, explaining its raised topography. While cherished locally, planning documents have noted its limitations in terms of size and the range of activities it can support. Its role as a site for communal expression is also evidenced by the placement of religious statues within it.
Architectural Details: The housing stock within The Tenters, primarily dating from the 1922-24 scheme, offers examples of early 20th-century residential design, with encouragement to note the varied styles and surviving ironwork. The use of mass concrete in construction is also a notable feature of Corporation housing from this period.
Proximity to Cathedrals: The easy walking distance to both Christ Church Cathedral and St Patrick's Cathedral places The Tenters and Blackpitts firmly within the orbit of two of Dublin's most significant historical and architectural landmarks.
Fumbally Lane Buildings: Remnants of the 18th and 19th-century industrial past survive along Fumbally Lane, including former distillery and malthouse buildings. While their original functions have ceased, many have been adapted for modern use as offices and creative hubs, preserving the physical structures while transforming their purpose.
Roper's Rest: Located near Blackpitts, this area name recalls the historical practice of rope-making (using hemp and flax-tow along a rope-walk, likely parallel to the Poddle) and is associated with a local ghost story concerning the headless horseman spectre of Sir Thomas Roper, after whom the area is named.
Features like the hidden air raid shelter beneath Oscar Square and the largely invisible, culverted River Poddle serve as reminders of the layers of history that exist beneath the surface of the modern city.
Recognising these subterranean or disguised elements—wartime precautions, the critical reliance on now-hidden watercourses—adds considerable depth to an understanding of how these neighbourhoods have evolved and functioned over time.
VI. Conclusion: Enduring Identity in Dublin 8
A. Synthesis
The histories of Blackpitts and The Tenters in Dublin 8 are deeply interwoven, revealing layers of urban development shaped by industry, social reform, and cultural assertion. From the medieval period onwards, the area west of the city walls evolved into a significant industrial hub, particularly for tanning in Blackpitts and textile finishing in the fields that became The Tenters. The River Poddle was the critical artery for these trades, dictating land use and powering mills.
The decline of traditional industries, notably weaving, paved the way for agricultural use and subsequently, in the early 20th century, for large-scale social housing initiatives. Responding to a severe housing crisis, Dublin Corporation, and later the nascent Irish Free State, undertook pioneering schemes like Spitalfields, St James's Walk/Colbert's Fort, Ceannt Fort, and the extensive Fairbrother's Fields (The Tenters).
These projects not only provided much-needed homes but also reflected evolving design standards and served as canvases for national commemoration, initially honouring revolutionary figures and later celebrating Ireland's rich cultural and scholarly heritage through street names chosen for The Tenters.
B. Enduring Character
This unique blend of industrial legacy, planned residential development rooted in social reform, and conscious cultural commemoration has forged a distinctive character for Blackpitts and The Tenters. Blackpitts retains echoes of its artisan and tanning past while undergoing modern regeneration, noted for its "hip" atmosphere. The Tenters, defined largely by the Fairbrother's Fields scheme, is consistently described as possessing a strong, tangible sense of community and remains a highly desirable residential area, valued for its location, character, and heritage. The persistence of names like "Blackpitts" and "The Tenters," the preservation of landmarks like the Clarence Mangan Road stone, and the community focus around spaces like Oscar Square all point to an enduring local identity.
C. Final Thoughts
Blackpitts and The Tenters offer compelling case studies in the complex narrative of Dublin's urban history. They demonstrate the profound impact of industrial change, the challenges and achievements of early social housing policy during times of immense upheaval, and the ways in which urban landscapes are actively shaped to reflect and embed cultural and national identity. Their story is one of resilience, adaptation, and the constant interplay between the legacies of the past and the realities of present-day city life, making them vital components of Dublin 8's rich historical and social fabric.
My GPS failed and as a result I had some problems deciding what areas individual streets and buildings are located within so describing all images in this collection as being in the Tenters or Blackpitts areas may not be fully accurate so you are invited to correct me.
Blackpitts and The Tenters: Industry, Community, and Heritage in Dublin 8
I. Introduction: Blackpitts and The Tenters - Heritage Hubs of Dublin 8
A. Overview
Nestled within the historic Liberties area of Dublin 8 lie the distinct yet deeply interconnected neighbourhoods of Blackpitts and The Tenters. These areas form a rich tapestry woven from the threads of centuries of industry, significant social change, and enduring cultural commemoration. Once peripheral lands beyond Dublin's medieval walls, they evolved through phases of monastic influence, intensive craft production, and ultimately, pioneering urban residential development.
Blackpitts, with its evocative name linked to medieval trades, and The Tenters, recalling the sights and sounds of textile finishing, stand today as vital parts of Dublin's urban narrative, reflecting both the hardships and the resilience that have shaped the city. Their stories encompass the rise and fall of industries, the impact of religious and migrant communities, the response to profound housing crises, and the conscious effort to embed cultural identity into the very fabric of the streets.
B. Purpose & Scope
This blog post aims to provide an expanded and fact-checked historical account of the Blackpitts and Tenters areas, drawing upon available evidence to elaborate on their geography, industrial past, significant housing developments, and cultural landscape. It seeks to move beyond a superficial overview, correcting potential inaccuracies in preliminary descriptions and delving deeper into the specific histories of these neighbourhoods.
The focus remains tightly on Blackpitts and The Tenters, exploring their individual characteristics while acknowledging their connections to the broader Liberties context and addressing specific historical points such as the origins of place names, the timeline and funding of the Fairbrother's Fields housing scheme, the sequence of early 20th-century Corporation housing projects, and the significance of local landmarks.
C. Initial Text Review Summary
Initial descriptions often capture key elements, such as the general location of The Tenters bordering Blackpitts and Newmarket Square, its proximity to city landmarks, the existence of a commemorative stone on Clarence Mangan Road, and the basic narrative of the Fairbrother's Fields housing scheme replacing former industrial or agricultural land. However, these initial accounts require verification and significant expansion regarding precise boundaries, the confirmation of walking distances, the full context of the stone inscription, the accurate timeline, funding details, and sequential development of early Dublin Corporation housing schemes, and the specific origins of numerous evocative street names. This report will address these points, grounding the narrative in documented historical and archaeological evidence.
II. Defining the Areas: Geography, Boundaries, and City Connections
A. Mapping The Tenters
The Tenters is formally defined as an area within Dublin 8 bordering the Liberties neighbourhood proper, Blackpitts, Donore Avenue, and Newmarket Square. However, common local understanding often extends the name "The Tenters" to encompass a wider residential zone that includes the original Fairbrother's Fields housing scheme (built 1922-1924) and adjacent streets stretching towards the South Circular Road, Donore Avenue, Cork Street, and Blackpitts. This area developed on lands historically known as the tenterfields, used for drying textiles.
Today, The Tenters is recognised as a mature, popular, and long-established residential neighbourhood. It possesses a distinct character marked by its quaint streets, a legacy of the planned layout from the 1920s scheme. Visitors are encouraged to observe the diverse architectural styles and intricate ironwork details that adorn many of the houses, reflecting the period's design sensibilities. Central to the area's identity is Oscar Square park, originally designated simply as a "Playground" in the housing plans, which now serves as a beloved focal point for the community, particularly popular with dog enthusiasts. The area retains a strong, tangible sense of community, making it a highly desirable place to live.
B. Situating Blackpitts
Located immediately adjacent to The Tenters, Blackpitts occupies a historically significant position connecting towards New Street and Fumbally Lane, in close proximity to the landmark St Patrick's Cathedral. Historically, Blackpitts was noted as an area inhabited by self-employed artisans and craftspeople, suggesting a degree of prosperity in earlier periods.
Its identity became strongly associated with industry, particularly the tanning of leather, but also weaving and milling, activities facilitated by the nearby River Poddle. In the early 1800s, part of the area was even known as the Cottonfields due to experimental cotton growing aimed at supporting the local weaving industry. In recent times, Blackpitts has gained recognition as a "cool" and "hip" neighbourhood, undergoing significant regeneration while still retaining elements of its historic character, such as artisan terraces and cottages.
C. Proximity and Connectivity
The location of The Tenters offers excellent connectivity to Dublin's city centre and key landmarks. Claims that the area is within a short walk of Grafton Street, St Stephen’s Green, and Christ Church Cathedral are substantiated by multiple sources. This proximity is frequently highlighted as a major factor in the area's enduring appeal as a residential location. Christ Church Cathedral, the elder of Dublin's two medieval cathedrals, is nearby , as is St Patrick's Cathedral, Ireland's largest church, founded in 1191.
Other significant nearby attractions and institutions include the Guinness Storehouse at St James's Gate , the Teeling Whiskey Distillery in Newmarket , the historic Marsh's Library , and the major medical facility, St James's Hospital, itself built on the site of the former South Dublin Union workhouse.
D. Interconnected Histories and Urban Change
The close geographical positioning and shared boundaries of Blackpitts and The Tenters point towards a historically interconnected relationship. Their development trajectories were not entirely separate; rather, they appear to have influenced one another. Blackpitts' focus on industry, particularly tanning which relied heavily on water from the River Poddle , existed alongside The Tenters, initially open fields crucial for the final stages of textile production – bleaching and drying – which also utilized local water resources. Fumbally Lane serves as a physical link, connecting Blackpitts to New Street near The Tenters boundary.
The eventual decline of the weaving industry, which rendered the tenterfields obsolete for their original purpose, directly paved the way for their transformation into market gardens and subsequently the large-scale Fairbrother's Fields housing scheme. This major shift in land use in The Tenters undoubtedly had implications for the adjacent industrial and residential landscape of Blackpitts.
Furthermore, the evolution of these areas illustrates broader patterns of urban change in inner-city Dublin. Blackpitts' journey from a relatively prosperous artisan quarter through intense industrial use, subsequent decline, and its current phase of regeneration and recognition as a desirable, "hip" location exemplifies cycles of economic fortune and gentrification.
This contrasts subtly with The Tenters, whose identity is strongly rooted in the 1920s housing scheme, fostering a sense of enduring community and heritage, marked by events like the Tenters100 Centenary commemorations. The continued high demand for housing in The Tenters, noted as echoing the desires of families nearly a century ago , highlights its sustained appeal. Yet, this contemporary popularity in both areas exists alongside the ongoing challenge of balancing modern urban pressures with the preservation of unique historical character, architectural integrity, and the continuity of established communities.
III. Echoes of Industry: The Making of Blackpitts and The Tenters
A. The Story in the Names
The very names "The Tenters" and "Blackpitts" serve as powerful linguistic markers, encoding centuries of industrial activity and landscape transformation.
"The Tenters": This name originates directly from the "tenterfields" that once occupied the area. From the 17th to the 19th centuries, these fields were essential to the Liberties' thriving textile industry. Locally woven cloth, primarily wool and linen, was brought here to be stretched taut on large wooden frames known as "tenters".
The cloth was secured by numerous "tenterhooks," a term that survives in the English idiom "to be on tenterhooks," meaning to be in a state of suspense or anxiety. This process allowed the fabric to dry evenly and bleach in the open air. The Huguenots, Protestant refugees who arrived from France in the late 17th century, brought valuable weaving skills and significantly contributed to this industry.
The memory of this practice is explicitly preserved by a stone inscription located on Clarence Mangan Road, which reads: “This area is known as the Tenters — because linen cloth was stretched out to bleach in the sun. When the linen trade failed, the fields were used for market gardens, until this housing scheme was built.”. Recognizing the challenges posed by the Irish weather, philanthropist Thomas Pleasants constructed a stone Tenter House in 1814, located between Cork Street, Brickfield Lane, Brown Street, and Ormond Street, to allow cloth drying indoors, protected from the elements.
"Blackpitts": The origin of the name Blackpitts has been subject to some debate. One theory proposed that it derived from mass burial pits used during the devastating Black Death (Bubonic Plague) epidemic that struck Dublin in 1348. However, extensive archaeological excavations conducted in the area, particularly at New Street South in 2004, have provided compelling evidence for an alternative, industry-related origin.
These excavations unearthed over one hundred tanning pits dating from the late thirteenth to the seventeenth century, revealing one of the largest and most long-lived medieval leatherworking sites discovered in Ireland or Britain. The tanning process involved soaking hides in pits filled with solutions often containing oak bark and other agents, which would have created dark, odorous liquids. It is now strongly suggested that the name "Blackpitts" refers directly to these numerous pits of black tanning solution that characterized the area for centuries, potentially dating back to late-medieval times.
B. Industrial Landscape
Blackpitts and the surrounding Liberties area, including the lands later known as The Tenters, formed a significant industrial zone for centuries, heavily reliant on local resources, particularly water from the River Poddle.
Textiles and Weaving: The Liberties was historically Dublin's primary textile district. Industries produced wool, linen, silk, cotton, and the famous Irish poplin (a silk and wool blend). Huguenot immigrants played a key role from the late 17th century, establishing weaving as a major activity. The Quaker community, including families like the Fairbrothers, were also heavily involved in weaving and cloth-making from the 17th century onwards. Notable figures like Richard Atkinson, a Master Weaver and twice Lord Mayor, pioneered the factory-based production of poplin.
Evidence of this trade includes the former Silk Weavers Union Hall (built 1904) on Donore Avenue, later used by rebels linked to Michael Mallin during the 1916 Easter Rising. Fumbally Lane housed businesses like Blair Fancy Linens, specializing in linen drapery in the late 20th century. The gradual decline of the weaving industry during the 19th century was a major economic shift for the area.
Tanning: As confirmed by archaeological work, tanning was a dominant industry in Blackpitts from at least the late 13th century through to the 17th century, and likely continued thereafter. The scale was significant, suggesting not just one large tannery but potentially a quarter with numerous smaller operations. This trade, transforming animal hides into leather, was vital for producing goods like shoes, harnesses, and containers. The industry relied heavily on the River Poddle, with evidence of ditches being dug off the watercourse to supply tanneries with water and provide drainage. Tanneries existed alongside other small industries, contributing to the area's mixed industrial character. Fumbally Lane, connecting Blackpitts to New Street, reflects this historical mix of tanning, brewing, and residential use.
Brewing and Distilling: The area around Blackpitts and Fumbally Lane also had a strong tradition of brewing and distilling, dating back to at least the mid-17th century and influenced by both Quaker and Huguenot entrepreneurs. Quaker families like Poole (who laid out Fumbally Lane in 1721) and Taylor had significant brewing interests here. It's suggested that Dublin's first porter may have been brewed in this vicinity. Notable operations included Samuel Madder's Blackpitts Porter Company (from 1779) and John Busby's Distillery, established in the 1830s on Fumbally Lane – a stone building featuring his initials 'JB' and the date '1836' on a water tank still exists today, incorporated into the Fumbally Studio development. The City of Dublin Brewery later occupied the Busby buildings in the late 19th century before the complex shifted to other industrial uses like textile manufacturing.
The River Poddle's Role: The River Poddle was the lifeblood of this industrial landscape. This fast-flowing river, originating in the Dublin Mountains and flowing towards the Liffey, was instrumental in shaping the area's development. It served multiple crucial functions: determining estate and parish boundaries; providing an early source of drinking water for the city; powering mills, initially for grain and later for larger industries; and supplying the vast amounts of water needed for tanning, brewing, distilling, and textile finishing processes like bleaching, dyeing, and washing.
Purpose-built ponds and cisterns associated with these trades appear on old maps, particularly in The Tenters area. Archaeological evidence shows ditches connected to the Poddle serving the tanneries. However, the river was also prone to flooding, and concerns about contamination from industrial effluent led to legislation from the 15th century onwards attempting to regulate its use and associated ditches. Despite now flowing largely underground through the area, the Poddle's legacy persists, occasionally causing flooding issues in modern times. The river's critical role highlights how natural resources fundamentally drove the area's economic specialization and shaped its physical and environmental history, with its eventual culverting marking a significant transformation in the urban relationship with water.
C. Land Use Evolution
The landscape of The Tenters underwent significant transformation over time, driven by economic shifts.
From Fields to Gardens: The primary identity of the "Tenters" fields was tied to their function in the textile industry – the open-air drying and bleaching of cloth stretched on tenter frames. As the traditional weaving and linen trades experienced a decline in the 19th century, this specific industrial use became obsolete. The open fields were then repurposed for market gardening, supplying produce to the growing city. This agricultural phase represents an intermediary stage before the land was ultimately earmarked for residential development.
The Fairbrother Connection: The name "Fairbrother's Fields" became associated with this land, linking it to the Fairbrother family. This family belonged to the Quaker community that settled in the Liberties in the 17th century and were actively involved in the area's weaving trade. Their ownership or association with these particular fields led to the name that persisted even after the land use changed. It was this site, known as Fairbrother's Fields, that Dublin Corporation selected in 1912 for what would become a major housing scheme. This sequence—from industrial use (tenterfields) to agriculture (market gardens) to residential development (Fairbrother's Fields housing scheme)—clearly illustrates a common pattern of urban transformation where declining industries free up land for new urban functions, driven by changing economic realities and growing population needs.
The layered identities encapsulated in the names "Tenters" and "Blackpitts" reflect this complex history. "The Tenters" speaks directly to the textile finishing process, while "Blackpitts" evokes the tanning industry (and perhaps older folk memories of plague burials). Together with the association of specific communities like Huguenots and Quakers with particular trades and locations (e.g., Fumbally Lane, Fairbrother's Fields), these names underscore a strong local identity deeply rooted in centuries of industrial activity, economic adaptation, and community presence.
IV. Building Communities: Dublin's Early 20th Century Housing Revolution
A. The Context: Addressing the Dublin Housing Crisis
The early decades of the 20th century found Dublin grappling with a housing crisis of appalling proportions. The city's tenements were widely regarded as the worst slums in Europe, characterised by overcrowding, dilapidation, and lack of basic sanitation. The catastrophic collapse of tenements on Church Street in 1913, which killed seven people, brought the dire situation into sharp public focus and acted as a catalyst for action.
Surveys revealed the shocking extent of the problem; a 1918 report indicated that nearly a third of Dublin's population (around 87,000 people) lived in slums, with over 20,000 families crammed into single-room dwellings. These conditions fostered the spread of diseases like tuberculosis and typhoid and were seen by some contemporary observers as contributing factors to social unrest, even potentially influencing the events of the 1916 Easter Rising. The tenement system itself had deep roots, evolving from the subdivision of former single-family Georgian houses into multi-occupancy dwellings without adequate adaptation.
In response, efforts to provide better housing gained momentum. The Dublin Corporation Housing Committee, under the long-term chairmanship of the dedicated Alderman Tom Kelly, was established to expedite the provision of new, well-planned housing for the city's working poor. Influences included emerging town planning ideas, the British Garden City and Garden Suburb movements, and the existing models of philanthropic housing associations like the Dublin Artisans’ Dwellings Company (DADC).
B. Pioneering Corporation Schemes (Sequence & Details)
Against a backdrop of global war and national revolution, Dublin Corporation embarked on a series of ambitious housing projects. The sequence of these initial schemes is important: Spitalfields was the first to see tenders accepted in 1918, work commenced on St James's Walk concurrently, followed by the planning and eventual construction of Ceannt Fort (McCaffrey's Estate) from 1919, and culminating in the largest scheme, Fairbrother's Fields, built between 1922 and 1924.
1. Spitalfields (Opened 1918):
Located in the heart of the Liberties, between Francis Street and Meath Street, this site required the clearance of existing slum properties. Identified early by Alderman Kelly, funding challenges were overcome when the prospect of an "American Loan" prompted the British Treasury to provide assistance. The project faced some public opposition regarding the ownership of the properties slated for demolition, some of which were reportedly owned by Corporation councillors.
The tender for the initial 75 houses was accepted in April 1918, with J. and M. Clarke as contractors. Despite wartime shortages, the houses were completed later that year. Rents were subsidised, representing a significant annual cost to the Corporation.
Architecturally, the scheme drew heavily on the style of the DADC and incorporated picturesque Garden Suburb elements like varied rooflines, brick and pebbledash finishes, and polychromatic brick details, though built at a relatively high density. A small shared public square was provided instead of individual gardens, a point of critique by figures like Sir John Griffith. While intended for former tenement dwellers, issues like overcrowding in the small, often one-roomed, dwellings persisted, almost replicating tenement conditions in some cases.
2. St James's Walk / Colbert's Fort (Completed 1921):
Construction began on this scheme while Spitalfields was still underway. Sited on elevated ground along the Grand Canal Main Line near the Guinness Brewery and Grand Canal headquarters, it was considered well-located for employment.
The Corporation already owned the land. Building contracts were awarded (possibly post-1916 to Alexander Hull) but completion, initially planned for nine months, was significantly delayed by factors including proposed road widening, shortages of materials and labour exacerbated by the war, and strikes by craftsmen. The completed housing was finally handed over to the Corporation in March 1921.
The naming of the scheme strongly reflected the heightened political atmosphere following the 1916 Rising. Dublin Corporation named the terraces in honour of executed leaders and participants: Colbert’s Fort (after Con Colbert), Clarke’s Terrace (after Tom Clarke), Mallin Avenue (after Michael Mallin), and McCarthy Terrace.
The scheme provided homes for 66 families arranged in four terraces. Learning from the Spitalfields experience, some houses facing the canal were provided with small front gardens, and a shared kitchen garden was allocated for the estate.
3. Ceannt Fort / McCaffrey Estate (Construction started 1919):
Located at Mount Brown, on the grounds of the former McCaffrey Estate adjacent to the South Dublin Union workhouse (now St James's Hospital). An initial 1914 proposal by City Architect C.J. McCarthy for 240 houses was criticised for its monotonous layout by figures like P.C. Cowan of the Local Government Board (LGB) and housing activist E.A. Aston.
Consequently, architect Thomas Joseph (TJ) Byrne, known for his progressive views on social housing standards, was commissioned. His radically different, lower-density design, incorporating features like a parlour, indoor toilet and bathroom, and large gardens for each house, was approved in February 1915. However, the necessary loan from the LGB (the British administrative body overseeing local authorities) was refused due to wartime financial restrictions.
Dublin Corporation reapplied successfully for the loan in 1917 (requesting an increase due to rising costs), and Byrne submitted revised plans. The tender was awarded to Louis Monks in January 1918, and construction commenced in 1919. Progress was slow, hampered by industrial action, funding difficulties, and the ongoing War of Independence; by August 1919, only 80 of 202 houses were complete despite high demand.
The estate was renamed Ceannt Fort in honour of Commandant Éamonn Ceannt, executed after the 1916 Rising, with individual roads named after other volunteers killed nearby in the South Dublin Union engagement.
Despite the difficulties, the finished scheme was lauded as "a wonderfully intimate series of housing clusters, gardens and playgrounds" and is still regarded as one of the finest examples of early 20th-century urban housing design in Ireland.
C. Focus: The Fairbrother's Fields Scheme (The Tenters) (1922-1924)
Genesis and Delays (1912-1922): The journey to build the Fairbrother's Fields housing scheme was long and arduous. Dublin Corporation selected the 22-acre site, named after the Quaker Fairbrother family associated with the land, as early as 1912. Initial plans were drawn up, but the project became entangled in a decade of profound national and international turmoil. The outbreak of the First World War, the 1916 Easter Rising, the subsequent War of Independence, and the Irish Civil War all contributed to significant delays and disruptions, preventing construction from commencing until 1922.
Funding Narratives: Funding this ambitious project spanned the transition from British rule to the establishment of the Irish Free State.
Regarding a claim that the British Government promised £4 million for Dublin housing schemes, which was then diverted to rebuild the city centre after the 1916 Rising, the available sources do not directly corroborate this specific figure being allocated to Fairbrother's Fields and subsequently redirected in this manner. However, it is documented that the British government did increase housing funds for Ireland expediently in the aftermath of the Rising, and Dublin Corporation utilised these funds, often adopting Garden Suburb design principles then favoured in Britain.
Crucially, the construction of Fairbrother's Fields (1922-1924) coincided with the birth of the new Irish state. The scheme holds the distinction of being the first Tenant Purchase housing project undertaken by the Irish Free State, specifically aimed at housing Dublin's working class. Its funding was significantly supported by the Provisional Government's landmark 'Million Pound Grant' scheme, championed by W.T. Cosgrave in January 1922.
This national initiative provided grants to urban local authorities covering two-thirds of construction costs, with the remaining third to be financed through local rates and short-term loans. Fairbrother's Fields was one of the major developments realised under this scheme. Dáil Éireann debates from the period reference the scheme's costs in comparison to other projects like Marino , while Seanad Éireann records also mention the grant and loan arrangements.
Realisation (1922-1924): Fairbrother's Fields became the final and largest of this initial wave of four Corporation housing estates, ultimately providing over 430 houses. To achieve this scale and expedite construction in the challenging post-conflict environment, the Corporation employed several different building contractors, resulting in a degree of variation in housing styles across the estate.
A key design feature, reflecting the evolving standards influenced by the Garden City movement, was the provision of both front and back gardens for all houses. The layout also prudently reserved space for future community amenities, including a school, a public park (Oscar Square), and a new Roman Catholic Church. In an effort to support local industry and employment, bricks from the nearby Dolphin’s Barn Brick Company were used in the construction of a large portion of the houses (357 units in 1922). The houses themselves were typically constructed using mass concrete, a common method for Corporation housing of this era.
Oscar Square: This central green space was an integral part of the original plan, referred to by the architects simply as the "Playground". It quickly became, and remains, a much-loved community asset. A fascinating hidden layer to its history is that its current raised elevation is a result of an underground air raid shelter constructed beneath it during the Second World War (known in Ireland as 'The Emergency').
Legacy and Centenary: The Fairbrother's Fields scheme, now encompassed within the broader Tenters area, marked its centenary in 2022, celebrating 100 years since construction began. The houses and the neighbourhood remain highly sought-after today, testament to the quality of the original planning and the enduring strength of the community that developed there.
The development of these four housing schemes—Spitalfields, St James's Walk/Colbert's Fort, Ceannt Fort, and Fairbrother's Fields—reveals much about the period. The progression demonstrates a clear evolution in design philosophy within just a few years. Spitalfields, the earliest, reflected older, higher-density models with limited private amenity space. In contrast, Ceannt Fort, under T.J. Byrne's influence, pioneered lower densities, private gardens, and significantly improved internal layouts with parlours and bathrooms, setting new standards. Fairbrother's Fields adopted the principle of private gardens for all dwellings. This rapid improvement in standards reflects the growing influence of Garden City ideals and a rising aspiration for better living conditions for the working classes.
Furthermore, the naming strategies employed across the schemes serve as a barometer of the shifting political climate. While Spitalfields retained older street names, the schemes built during and immediately after the revolutionary period (St James's Walk/Colbert's Fort and Ceannt Fort) were explicitly named to commemorate leaders and participants of the 1916 Rising.
Fairbrother's Fields, however, as the first major scheme undertaken by the new Free State, adopted a different commemorative approach, focusing on figures associated with Ireland's cultural and intellectual heritage, particularly the Celtic Revival. This deliberate choice demonstrates how social housing projects became platforms for expressing and embedding evolving concepts of national identity – initially focused on revolutionary sacrifice, later broadening to encompass cultural achievement – within the urban landscape of the nascent state.
Finally, the persistent delays encountered across nearly all these projects underscore the immense practical challenges of implementing ambitious social policy during a period marked by war, revolution, civil conflict, economic instability, material shortages, and labour disputes. The eventual completion of these schemes, despite such formidable obstacles, stands as a remarkable achievement of the Dublin Corporation Housing Committee and the various state bodies involved.
V. Reading the Streets: Landmarks, Names, and Cultural Memory
A. Decoding Street Names
The naming of the streets within the Fairbrother's Fields housing scheme was a deliberate act of cultural inscription. Alderman Thomas Kelly, the influential chairman of the Housing Committee, proposed naming the roads after prominent figures associated with Irish arts, literature, history, and scholarship, particularly those connected with the Celtic Revival movement of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. This suggestion was approved by Dublin Corporation. Intriguingly, several of the individuals honoured also shared a common history of employment with the Ordnance Survey Ireland (OSI), the national mapping agency whose work was foundational to the study of Irish topography, archaeology, and place names. This adds another layer of meaning, connecting the new neighbourhood to the scholarly project of defining and understanding the Irish nation.
The following list summarises the confirmed or highly probable origins of key street names within The Tenters area, clarifying connections and correcting potential assumptions:
St Thomas's Road: St Thomas the Martyr/Abbey. Linked to the 12th C Abbey of St Thomas & Liberty of Thomas Court & Donore.
Oscar Square: Oscar, son of Oisín - Figure from Fenian Cycle of Irish Mythology (reflecting Celtic Revival interest).
Clarence Mangan Road: James Clarence Mangan (1803-1849) 19th C Poet, known for dark, powerful verse; key figure in pre-Revival literature.
O'Carolan Road: Turlough O'Carolan (1670-1738) - Renowned blind travelling harper & composer, considered a national composer.
O'Curry Road/Avenue: Eugene O'Curry (1794-1862) 19th C Scholar & Antiquary, researched/translated Irish history manuscripts.
O'Donovan Road: John O'Donovan (1806-1861) - 19th C Scholar, worked on Ordnance Survey, translated Annals of Four Masters.
Geoffrey Keating Road: Geoffrey Keating (c.1569-c.1644) 17th C Priest, Poet & Historian (author of Foras Feasa ar Éirinn).
Petrie Road: George Petrie (1790-1866) 19th C Painter, Musician, Antiquary, Archaeologist, RIA President.
Gilbert Road: Sir John Gilbert (1829-1898) 19th C Historian & Archivist of Dublin, edited key city records.
Dufferin Avenue: Baroness Dufferin (1807-1867) Poet (Likely Helen Blackwood, Lady Dufferin, known for "The Irish Emigrant").
This deliberate naming strategy represents a conscious act of placemaking. By inscribing the names of figures central to Irish cultural and intellectual history onto the streets of this new working-class neighbourhood, the authorities of the nascent Irish Free State aimed to foster a sense of national heritage and pride, embedding cultural memory into the residents' daily lives. The specific inclusion of four prominent figures associated with the Ordnance Survey further links the area to the foundational work of mapping and documenting the Irish landscape and its past.
B. Key Sites and Features
Beyond the street names, several physical features contribute to the character and historical understanding of Blackpitts and The Tenters:
Clarence Mangan Road Stone: As previously mentioned, this simple stone marker provides a direct, tangible link to the area's industrial past, explicitly commemorating the transition from tenter fields to market gardens to housing.
Oscar Square Park: This central green space remains a vital community hub. Its history as the site of a Second World War air raid shelter adds a layer of hidden history, explaining its raised topography. While cherished locally, planning documents have noted its limitations in terms of size and the range of activities it can support. Its role as a site for communal expression is also evidenced by the placement of religious statues within it.
Architectural Details: The housing stock within The Tenters, primarily dating from the 1922-24 scheme, offers examples of early 20th-century residential design, with encouragement to note the varied styles and surviving ironwork. The use of mass concrete in construction is also a notable feature of Corporation housing from this period.
Proximity to Cathedrals: The easy walking distance to both Christ Church Cathedral and St Patrick's Cathedral places The Tenters and Blackpitts firmly within the orbit of two of Dublin's most significant historical and architectural landmarks.
Fumbally Lane Buildings: Remnants of the 18th and 19th-century industrial past survive along Fumbally Lane, including former distillery and malthouse buildings. While their original functions have ceased, many have been adapted for modern use as offices and creative hubs, preserving the physical structures while transforming their purpose.
Roper's Rest: Located near Blackpitts, this area name recalls the historical practice of rope-making (using hemp and flax-tow along a rope-walk, likely parallel to the Poddle) and is associated with a local ghost story concerning the headless horseman spectre of Sir Thomas Roper, after whom the area is named.
Features like the hidden air raid shelter beneath Oscar Square and the largely invisible, culverted River Poddle serve as reminders of the layers of history that exist beneath the surface of the modern city.
Recognising these subterranean or disguised elements—wartime precautions, the critical reliance on now-hidden watercourses—adds considerable depth to an understanding of how these neighbourhoods have evolved and functioned over time.
VI. Conclusion: Enduring Identity in Dublin 8
A. Synthesis
The histories of Blackpitts and The Tenters in Dublin 8 are deeply interwoven, revealing layers of urban development shaped by industry, social reform, and cultural assertion. From the medieval period onwards, the area west of the city walls evolved into a significant industrial hub, particularly for tanning in Blackpitts and textile finishing in the fields that became The Tenters. The River Poddle was the critical artery for these trades, dictating land use and powering mills.
The decline of traditional industries, notably weaving, paved the way for agricultural use and subsequently, in the early 20th century, for large-scale social housing initiatives. Responding to a severe housing crisis, Dublin Corporation, and later the nascent Irish Free State, undertook pioneering schemes like Spitalfields, St James's Walk/Colbert's Fort, Ceannt Fort, and the extensive Fairbrother's Fields (The Tenters).
These projects not only provided much-needed homes but also reflected evolving design standards and served as canvases for national commemoration, initially honouring revolutionary figures and later celebrating Ireland's rich cultural and scholarly heritage through street names chosen for The Tenters.
B. Enduring Character
This unique blend of industrial legacy, planned residential development rooted in social reform, and conscious cultural commemoration has forged a distinctive character for Blackpitts and The Tenters. Blackpitts retains echoes of its artisan and tanning past while undergoing modern regeneration, noted for its "hip" atmosphere. The Tenters, defined largely by the Fairbrother's Fields scheme, is consistently described as possessing a strong, tangible sense of community and remains a highly desirable residential area, valued for its location, character, and heritage. The persistence of names like "Blackpitts" and "The Tenters," the preservation of landmarks like the Clarence Mangan Road stone, and the community focus around spaces like Oscar Square all point to an enduring local identity.
C. Final Thoughts
Blackpitts and The Tenters offer compelling case studies in the complex narrative of Dublin's urban history. They demonstrate the profound impact of industrial change, the challenges and achievements of early social housing policy during times of immense upheaval, and the ways in which urban landscapes are actively shaped to reflect and embed cultural and national identity. Their story is one of resilience, adaptation, and the constant interplay between the legacies of the past and the realities of present-day city life, making them vital components of Dublin 8's rich historical and social fabric.
THE TENTERS AND THE BLACKPITTS AREAS OF DUBLIN