CORNMARKET AREA

THE CORNMARKET AREA OF DUBLIN

CORNMARKET AREA OF DUBLIN [PHOTOGRAPHED 13 APRIL 2025]

The Cornmarket Area of Dublin: Origins, Development, and Current Status

The Cornmarket area of Dublin, situated within the city's historic centre, holds a significant place in its urban narrative. This report aims to provide a comprehensive investigation into the origins and development of this area, its present-day condition, and the notable architectural and historical structures that are located within it. By examining the multifaceted history of the Cornmarket, a deeper understanding of Dublin's evolving urban landscape can be achieved.

The area encompassing the Cornmarket lies within the oldest settled parts of Dublin, with evidence indicating habitation as early as the mid-5th century. This early settlement, known as Átha Cliath, meaning "town of the hurdled ford," highlights the area's fundamental importance as a key crossing point over the River Liffey. The strategic positioning of this settlement on a prominent ridge overlooking the river not only offered natural defensibility but also presented considerable advantages for the facilitation of early trade. The sustained presence of human activity in the Cornmarket area for over a millennium underscores its enduring role as a central and vital location within the city of Dublin. The initial benefit provided by the ford likely established this area as a crucial nexus for subsequent urban growth and development.

The appellation "Cornmarket" was adopted for this area following the erection of a notable marble water cistern in 1308. This public amenity was commissioned by Jean le Decer, who served as the Mayor of Dublin, and was situated in close proximity to Newgate Street. The construction of such a significant structure suggests a growing formalisation of the area as a centre for commercial activity during this period. Newgate, which functioned as a principal gateway in the city wall on its western side, and is now encompassed by the Cornmarket, further contributed to the area's burgeoning popularity as a place for the sale of grain. This directly addresses the primary function that the Cornmarket would come to serve in the ensuing centuries. The economic importance of the Cornmarket in its early years was further underscored by King John's Charter. This royal decree mandated that foreign merchants were permitted to purchase only specific commodities – namely corn, hides, and wool – exclusively from the citizens of Dublin, thereby establishing the Cornmarket as a vital node within the city's broader economic framework. The erection of the water cistern appears to have been a pivotal event that facilitated the area's recognition as a dedicated marketplace for corn. Furthermore, the royal charter served to cement its significance within the larger trade networks operating in the city at the time.

Beyond its primary function as a trading hub, the early Cornmarket area also served other public purposes. To the northwest of the Cornmarket, the Bull Ring was a designated space for martial combat training. Historical records indicate that from at least the reign of Elizabeth I, the city's youth would gather here four times annually to receive instruction in military skills. This suggests that the area's significance extended beyond mere commerce into aspects of public life and civic engagement. The Brehon Laws, an ancient Irish legal system, provide evidence of the early cultivation of corn in Ireland. During the medieval period, the Cornmarket played a critical role in the large-scale export of grain to England, Scotland, and Wales. This highlights the area's enduring agricultural and economic importance on a broader scale. Records from the 14th century, including complaints registered against bakers and documented fluctuations in the price of wheat, offer insights into the Cornmarket's integral role in the city's food supply mechanisms and overall economic stability. Keyzar's Lane, which connected the Cornmarket to Cook Street, became the site of a significant event in 1496 when Mayor Jenico Marks was fatally wounded whilst attempting to quell a disturbance among the city's inhabitants. This incident suggests that the area was not always peaceful and could be subject to social unrest. Furthermore, from 1485, Newgate Prison was initially situated within the Cornmarket area, indicating a more sombre aspect of its early history, as it served as the city's primary place of detention. The initial history of the Cornmarket area reveals a dynamic and multifaceted space that was central to the life of early Dublin. It functioned not only as a vital centre for trade but also as a venue for public gatherings, military exercises, and even as the location of the city's principal prison, demonstrating its pivotal role in the social and economic fabric of the time.

Throughout the Middle Ages, the Cornmarket flourished as a vital centre for the grain trade, solidifying its position as an important and busy part of the city. The establishment of St Thomas's Abbey in the 12th century, located near what is now Thomas Street to the north of the Cornmarket, further contributed to the prosperity and commercial activity of the broader area known as the Liberties. Thomas Street, in particular, evolved into a vibrant marketplace, attracting merchants and traders and enhancing the economic dynamism of the entire district. The strategic location of the Cornmarket in proximity to significant religious and administrative hubs, coupled with its established role in the grain trade, likely underpinned its sustained prosperity during these centuries. The subsequent development of the Liberties as a thriving commercial area further amplified the economic activity in the vicinity of the Cornmarket.

However, by the early 18th century, the primary location of the Cornmarket underwent a significant change, being relocated to Thomas Street. This move was necessitated by the increasing congestion in the original area, largely attributed to the activities of individuals known as "Pluckers in." These people would stand in the streets, actively trying to entice potential customers into nearby shops, thereby impeding the flow of traffic and making passage through the Cornmarket increasingly difficult. This relocation marked a notable shift in the area's principal function as the central marketplace for grain. Following this move, the original Cornmarket area experienced a change in its character and the types of businesses operating there. It became predominantly occupied by haberdashers, who dealt in small items for sewing, woollen drapers, who traded in woollen cloth, and dealers in linens. This transition indicates a move away from its specific role as a grain market towards a more diversified mercantile area catering to different needs. In the early 19th century, the Wide Streets Commission was established with the aim of improving the layout and flow of traffic within Dublin. The efforts of this commission eventually led to the disappearance of the physical corn market hall that had been situated on Thomas Street. This reflects the impact of planned urban development initiatives on the area's physical infrastructure and historical function. The early 19th century also witnessed the construction of a new Corn Exchange on Burgh Quay. This development further diminished the significance of the original Cornmarket area as the primary location for trading in grain. The establishment of this new, purpose-built facility highlights the influence of evolving urban needs and infrastructure on the historical roles of different areas within the city. Additionally, Newgate Prison, which had been located in the Cornmarket since 1485, was relocated to Green Street in 1781. This change further altered the character of that particular part of the Cornmarket area. The functional and physical changes experienced by the Cornmarket area over time illustrate the dynamic nature of urban development and the ways in which different parts of a city adapt to evolving economic and social conditions.

Despite the relocation of the main corn market, the area around the original Cornmarket and Christchurch continued to be a bustling part of medieval Dublin. Tradespeople and craftspeople maintained a strong presence, providing essential services and goods to the town's inhabitants. The area we now recognise as Cornmarket has largely been shaped by 20th-century urban planning, specifically the widening of roads to create the thoroughfares of High Street and Bridge Street. This significant physical alteration has redefined the area's layout and likely influenced its contemporary atmosphere. The Liberties area, which encompasses the Cornmarket, also underwent substantial industrial development in subsequent centuries. Industries such as brewing, distilling, tanning, and weaving became prominent, contributing to the diverse and evolving character of the area over time. While the Cornmarket itself transitioned away from its primary role as a central grain market, the surrounding district remained a vital hub of commercial and industrial activity, demonstrating its capacity to adapt to the changing economic landscape of the city. The 20th-century road widening project represents a more recent and impactful intervention that has shaped the physical form of the Cornmarket as it exists today.

Presently, the area known as Cornmarket primarily functions as a busy transportation corridor, with High Street and Bridge Street serving as major traffic routes. Despite this modern infrastructure, remnants of the area's rich history can still be discerned. Sections of the old city wall, which once formed the boundary of medieval Dublin, are preserved at Cornmarket and in Lamb Alley. Additionally, St Audoen's Arch stands as the sole surviving gateway to the old city, providing a tangible link to its medieval past. The area's proximity to Christchurch Cathedral, a significant architectural and historical landmark, continues to draw visitors and contributes to the area's overall character. Notably, Cornmarket Group Financial Services Ltd., a financial services company offering investment and insurance brokerage predominantly to public sector employees, maintains its Dublin office at Christchurch Square, Dublin 8. The presence of this substantial commercial entity, named after the area, is a significant aspect of its contemporary status. Furthermore, the Cornmarket and Christchurch area serves as a location for filming, suggesting that it retains a degree of visual appeal and historical ambiance. The current status of the Cornmarket area reflects a confluence of its historical legacy and modern urban functions, primarily serving as a vital artery for transportation whilst still holding pockets of historical and commercial relevance.

Historically, the area's commercial activities included haberdashers, woollen drapers, and linen merchants. Today, the commercial activities in the Cornmarket area are varied. Cornmarket Group Financial Services Ltd. stands as a major business presence, as mentioned previously. Retail businesses also operate in the area, such as Farrow & Ball, a paint and wallpaper shop located at 14-15 Cornmarket. Additionally, MRCB occupies the premises at 10-13 Cornmarket, functioning as a commercial property that houses retail spaces, offices, and a dental clinic. The vicinity of Christchurch Square further contributes to the commercial landscape, featuring establishments such as the Leonardo Hotel Dublin Christchurch 20, a Spar convenience store 61, and a variety of other retail outlets and service providers. The current mix of businesses in the Cornmarket area reflects its transformation from a specialised grain market to a more general urban commercial zone, catering to a diverse range of needs and services.

The overall atmosphere of the Cornmarket area today is characterised by its function as a busy thoroughfare for vehicular traffic. This suggests a dynamic and potentially high-energy environment. However, the presence of significant historical remnants, such as the surviving sections of the medieval city wall and St Audoen's Arch, imbues the area with a tangible connection to its rich past, lending a sense of historical character amidst the modern activity. The close proximity of Christchurch Cathedral, a prominent landmark with centuries of history, further contributes to the area's historical and potentially tourist-oriented ambiance. The wider Liberties area, in which the Cornmarket is situated, is known for its diverse and vibrant atmosphere, featuring an eclectic mix of antique shops, vintage boutiques, art galleries, bars, and cafes. Moreover, the area surrounding Christchurch Square offers a variety of restaurants, cafes, and bars, contributing to the local vibrancy. The present-day character of the Cornmarket area is therefore a blend of the functional aspects of a major transportation route and the enduring presence of its medieval heritage, enhanced by the cultural and commercial activity of the surrounding Liberties district.

The Cornmarket area of Dublin is home to several buildings of significant architectural and historical note, each contributing to the rich tapestry of the city's heritage.

Christ Church Cathedral stands as a pivotal landmark, with its construction commencing around 1172, replacing an earlier wooden structure dating back to approximately 1030. This makes it one of the oldest buildings in Dublin, founded by the Norse King Sitriuc 'Silkbeard' and Dúnán, the city's first bishop. Throughout its history, the cathedral has been the site of significant events, including the 'crowning' of Lambert Simnel as Edward VI in 1487. In the 1870s, the cathedral underwent extensive restoration, largely funded by the whiskey distiller Henry Roe and overseen by the architect George Edmund Street. The architectural style is predominantly Gothic, with surviving Romanesque elements that date back to the 12th century. Notable features of the cathedral include its medieval crypt, which is the oldest surviving structure in Dublin 25, prominent flying buttresses, and a belfry that holds a world record for the number of change-ringing bells. The cathedral is also connected to Synod Hall (Dublinia) by a covered footbridge that was constructed around 1875.

Adjacent to the cathedral is Synod Hall, also known as Dublinia. This building was constructed around 1875 by George Edmund Street as part of the broader reconstruction of Christ Church Cathedral. It originally served as the Synod Hall for the Church of Ireland until 1983 and now functions as the Dublinia Viking and Medieval history museum. The architectural style is characterised as robust First Pointed Gothic, featuring simple buttresses, circular turrets, and plate tracery. The structure incorporates the tower of an earlier church that dated back to the 17th century. As previously mentioned, Synod Hall is linked to Christ Church Cathedral by a covered bridge, distinguished by its elaborate limestone detailing and stained glass windows.

Located at 10-13 Cornmarket stands a building constructed in 1877 as a warehouse for James H. Webb & Company, who were clothiers and woollen drapers. The design of this seven-bay, four-storey structure is attributed to McCurdy & Mitchell and features ornate granite detailing. Originally, the ground level was designed with large display windows, indicative of its commercial purpose. However, when the building was repurposed as local health offices in the 1950s, these ground-floor windows were bricked up. More recently, the building has undergone substantial refurbishment by HSE Estates, with the intention of housing the HSE Communications Office there. This renovation included the restoration of the timber sash windows on the main façade and the reinstatement of the original ground floor profile, reopening the building to the street.

At 14-15 Cornmarket, another notable building was constructed in 1866 to serve as a bank. It now operates as a shop, Farrow & Ball. The architect, Charles Geoghegan, employed an Italian Gothic style for this former Royal Bank building. The building is characterised by its decorative polychrome brick parapet and ornate render detailing on the ground floor. A more recent addition is a third storey with a flat roof.

St Audoen's Church, belonging to the Church of Ireland, stands as the sole remaining medieval parish church in Dublin, with its construction dating back to around 1190. It is dedicated to St Ouen of Rouen. The church features a 15th-century bell tower that houses the oldest set of church bells still in use in Ireland, cast in 1423. Its architectural style is a blend of Romanesque and Gothic, with later Neo-Gothic elements incorporated. Inside, the church contains the Portlester tomb, dating from 1482, as well as memorials to various notable families. The church is situated adjacent to the surviving portions of the old city wall and St Audoen's Arch.

Nearby stands St Audoen's Church, belonging to the Roman Catholic denomination. This church was built between 1841 and 1847, exhibiting a Greek Revival architectural style. The design is credited to Patrick Byrne, with a portico added later between 1898 and 1902 by George Ashlin. Due to the steeply sloping site, the church incorporates a double-level crypt at the rear. It is also notable for housing the National Shrine of St Anne.

Although no longer standing, the site of Newgate Prison holds historical significance. It was initially located in the Cornmarket area from 1485, serving as the primary prison for the city. Before its use as a prison, it functioned as one of the city's main gates. In 1781, the prison was relocated to Green Street. The original site of Newgate Prison is now occupied by Saint Michan's Park. The prison played a notable role in the penal history of Dublin for several centuries.

Another historically important structure, no longer extant, is the Corn Market House on Thomas Street. Completed in 1725, it was one of Dublin's earliest dedicated corn exchanges and was situated near Newgate and the Black Dog jail, in the area now often referred to as Cornmarket. It was a long, two-storey building featuring an arcaded facade with 13 arches and a central cupola. Due to its inconvenient location and the obstruction it caused to street traffic, the Corn Market House was demolished in 1818 by the Wide Streets Commission.

The site of the Black Dog Prison also contributes to the area's history. Located in Newhall Market, which is now known as Cornmarket, it was built on the grounds of Browne's Castle. Before becoming a prison, it operated as a tavern, from which it derived its name, and served as a place of confinement from at least the 17th century. From the early 18th century, the Black Dog Prison functioned as Dublin's primary debtors' prison. By the late 18th century, it was replaced by newer prisons, including the relocated Newgate Prison and a new Sheriff's Prison on Green Street. The site of the Black Dog Prison is situated between Upper Bridge Street and St Augustine Street, to the north of Cornmarket, and no physical remains of the structure are currently visible.

The Cornmarket area and its surroundings have witnessed recent developments and are subject to planned changes that will shape its future.

Recent developments include the refurbishment of the building at 10-13 Cornmarket by HSE Estates. This project aimed to house the HSE Communications Office within the premises and involved the restoration of the building's original facade. Additionally, a building at 61-63 Thomas Street has been undergoing redevelopment to transform it into a multipurpose space that will include a large office area and a new restaurant. The property located at 12-13 Cornmarket & 7/11 Augustine Street has been put up for sale as a retail investment opportunity. Furthermore, the Land Development Agency (LDA) has unveiled plans for the redevelopment of the Digital Hub campus, situated near Thomas Street. These ambitious plans envision the creation of affordable housing alongside commercial, cultural, and community facilities. The wider Liberties area, in which the Cornmarket is located, is also the focus of ongoing regeneration efforts by Dublin City Council, including the implementation of the Liberties Greening Strategy. These recent activities indicate a renewed focus on the area, balancing the preservation of its heritage with the introduction of contemporary uses.

Looking ahead, several planned changes are expected to further transform the Cornmarket area. The LDA's masterplan for the Digital Hub site is anticipated to be finalised, with the phased delivery of the proposed development commencing from 2024 onwards. There is also the potential for additional development and conservation projects within the broader Liberties area, driven by Dublin City Council's strategic initiatives. Notably, Cornmarket financial services has introduced a 'Sustainable Business Impact Award,' suggesting a growing corporate emphasis on environmental responsibility and community engagement. These planned changes indicate that the future of the Cornmarket area will likely be characterised by a combination of private sector development, public sector-led regeneration projects, and an increasing awareness of the importance of sustainability and community involvement in urban development.

In conclusion, the Cornmarket area of Dublin presents a rich and layered history, evolving from its earliest origins as a strategic settlement and river crossing to its significant role as a central marketplace for grain. Over the centuries, the area has witnessed substantial development and change, including the relocation of the market and its subsequent transformation into a hub of commercial and industrial activity. Today, whilst primarily functioning as a busy transportation route, the Cornmarket retains its historical significance through surviving remnants of its medieval past and its proximity to iconic landmarks. Notable buildings such as Christ Church Cathedral, Synod Hall, and the former commercial warehouses stand as testaments to the area's architectural heritage, whilst the sites of Newgate Prison and the Corn Market House serve as important reminders of its historical functions. As the Cornmarket area looks to the future, recent developments and planned changes indicate a continued process of urban evolution, balancing the preservation of its unique heritage with the introduction of new uses and a growing focus on sustainable and community-oriented development. The Cornmarket remains a vital part of Dublin's urban fabric, reflecting the city's dynamic history and its ongoing adaptation to contemporary needs.